2002 – In the "International Year of the Mountains" visit by mountaineers into the, First ascent of Manaslu without supplementary oxygen, First ascent of Everest and K2 without supplementary oxygen – male, First ascent of the top three highest mountains without supplementary oxygen – male, First person to climb all 8,000-metre mountains without supplementary oxygen, First person to climb all 8,000-metre mountains, First ascent of Everest without supplementary oxygen, First ascent of Gasherbrum I without supplementary oxygen. Released in January 2010 in cinemas, the film was criticized by the other members of the team for telling only one side of the story. En 1989-1990, il réalise la traversée de l'Antarctique (départ de Patriot Hills, arrivée à Mac Murdo en passant par le pôle) avec Arved Fuchs en 92 jours (2 400 km) en tirant eux-mêmes des traîneaux. The aim was to forge a path up the as-yet-unclimbed face. Reinhold Messner (links) mit Heini Holzer (rechts; Bild: Sepp Mayerl) Er erprobte sich lieber in schwierigsten Klettereien und behauptete da, was ihm seine innere Stimme sagte, gegen Vorwürfe und Angriffe. [5], Since the 1960s, Messner, inspired by Hermann Buhl, was one of the first and most enthusiastic supporters of alpine style mountaineering in the Himalayas, which consisted of climbing with very light equipment and a minimum of external help. Also on this expedition was Reinhard Karl, the first German to reach the summit, albeit with the aid of supplemental oxygen. Headed by Messner, the small expedition consisted of six climbers: Italians Alessandro Gogna, Friedl Mutschlechner and Renato Casarotto; the Austrian, Robert Schauer; and Germans Michael Dacher, journalist, Jochen Hölzgen, and doctor Ursula Grether, who was injured during the approach and had to be carried to Askole by Messner and Mutschlechner. Finally, on 6 May, Messner, Mutschlechner and Ang Dorje stood on the summit. Son intérêt pour la nature le conduit également à être élu député européen de 1999 à 2004, sous l'étiquette des Verts. During the ascent, Messner discovered the body of a previously missing Austrian mountaineer, whom he buried two years later at the G I – G II crossing. He reached an altitude of about 7,500 m (24,600 feet), when great masses of snow forced him to turn back. [citation needed], Messner chose a new variation of the route up the North Face. Whilst bivouacking during the descent, the tent tore away from Mutschlechner and Messner, and Messner also fell ill. Reinhold Messner, ou l'anarchie par la montagne, « Reinhold Messner: On top of the world », L’alpiniste Reinhold Messner, écrivain « prolifique », The controversy surrounding Reinhold Messner, Nanga Parbat film restarts row over Messner brothers' fatal climb, Meet One of the Greatest Mountaineers of All Time, https://fr.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Reinhold_Messner&oldid=173963959, Premier ascensionniste de l'Everest dans une catégorie, Grand prix Serge-Kampf de l'Académie des sports, Député européen du groupe Les Verts/Alliance libre européenne 1999-2004, Lauréat du prix Princesse des Asturies en sport, Article contenant un appel à traduction en allemand, Article contenant un appel à traduction en anglais, Catégorie Commons avec lien local identique sur Wikidata, Article de Wikipédia avec notice d'autorité, Page pointant vers des bases relatives à la vie publique, Page pointant vers des bases relatives au sport, Portail:Alpinisme et escalade/Articles liés, Portail:Politique en Italie/Articles liés, Portail:Biographie/Articles liés/Politique, Portail:Biographie/Articles liés/Culture et arts, licence Creative Commons attribution, partage dans les mêmes conditions, comment citer les auteurs et mentionner la licence, Mort de son frère Günther dans l'expédition, Avec Gottfried Mutschlechner et Hans Kammerlander. The following day, only Horst Fankhauser returned. In 1967 he made the first ascent of the northeast face of the Agnér and the first winter ascents of the Agnér north face and Furchetta north face. In 1999, Messner was elected Member of the European Parliament for the Federation of the Greens (FdV), the Italian green party, receiving more than 20,000 votes in the European election. [19][20], The drama was turned into a film Nanga Parbat (2010) by Joseph Vilsmaier, based on the memories of Reinhold Messner and without participation from the other former members of the expedition. En mai 2018, il reçoit le prix Princesse des Asturies. Reinhold Messner, Bergsteiger Gerade erschien sein Buch "Gehe ich nicht, gehe ich kaputt". In 2003 Messner started work on a project for a mountaineering museum. Seit 1969 unternahm er mehr als hundert Reisen in die Gebirge und Wüsten dieser Erde. [8], While Messner and Peter Habeler were noted for fast ascents in the Alps of the Eiger North Wall, standard route (10 hours) and Les Droites (8 hours), his 1975 Gasherbrum I first ascent of a new route took three days. Nach seinem Technik-Studium arbeitete er kurze Zeit als Mittelschullehrer, ehe er sich ganz dem Bergsteigen verschrieb. In 2006, he founded the Messner Mountain Museum. He climbed with Kammerlander up the normal route along the northeast ridge. [citation needed], The events that followed have been the subject of years of legal actions and disputes between former expedition members, and have still not been finally resolved. From 1999 to 2004, he held political office as a Member of the European Parliament for the Italian Green Party (Federazione dei Verdi). Messner himself was no longer in a position to help the search. Although they had turned back twice during this expedition, they made the summit on the third attempt on 26 September. Bass ayant lancé le défi de les atteindre tous, il remporte celui-ci le 30 avril 1985 en gravissant l'Everest au cours d'une expédition. MMM Dolomites, known as the Museum in the Clouds, is located at Monte Rite (2,181 m or 7,156 feet) between Pieve di Cadore and Cortina d'Ampezzo. Les sites réputés les plus difficiles d'accès des Alpes avec le Cervin. On 28 May, Messner and Mutschlechner reached the summit in very bad weather; part of the climb involving ski mountaineering. The climb was carried out with a variation from the normal route at the start. [citation needed] Until that point, all fourteen 8000-meter peaks had been summitted using the expedition style, though Hermann Buhl had earlier advocated "West Alpine Style" (similar to "capsule" style, with a smaller group relying on minimal fixed ropes). Reinhold passe une troisième nuit sans protection, durant laquelle il est atteint d'hallucinations. had to contend with a strong wind in the summit area. In 2004 he completed a 2,000-kilometre (1,200 mi) expedition through the Gobi desert. He was suffering from amoebic liver abscess, making him very weak. He was planning on climbing Kangchenjunga first, before tackling Gasherbrum II and the Broad Peak. Messner stand als erster Bergsteiger auf allen vierzehn Achttausendern und erklomm mit Peter Habeler den Mount Everest ohne künstlichen Sauerstoff. Reinhold Messner, 1944 in Südtirol geboren, bestieg bereits als 5-Jähriger in Begleitung seines Vaters den ersten Dreitausender. From 1972 until 1977, Messner was married to Uschi Demeter. Son défi est remporté le 7 mai 1986 par le Canadien Patrick Morrow, suivi par Messner lui-même, en décembre de la même année. Son intérêt pour la nature le conduit également à être élu député européen de 1999 à 2004, sous l'étiquette des Verts. Using a new route on the northwest face, he reached the summit with Kammerlander on 24 April. Messner was the first to cross Antarctica and Greenland with neither snowmobiles nor dog sleds. [21][23], In 1982, Messner wanted to become the first climber ever to scale three eight-thousanders in one year. He repeated the feat, without Habeler, from the Tibetan side in 1980, during the monsoon season. Messner's brother, Günther, was also a member of the team. In 1978, he made a solo ascent of the Diamir face of Nanga Parbat. Messner suggested another list (the Messner or Carstensz list) replacing Mount Kosciuszko with Indonesia's Puncak Jaya, or Carstensz Pyramid (4,884 m or 16,024 feet). [citation needed], Italian mountaineer, adventurer and explorer, Climbs of the eight-thousanders after 1970, Selected bibliography (English translations), peaks over 8,000 metres (26,000 ft) above sea level, Learn how and when to remove this template message, "The controversy surrounding Reinhold Messner", "Nanga Parbat film restarts row over Messner brothers' fatal climb", "Reinhold Messner trickste Neugierige aus: Einen Tag früher geheiratet", "Nanga Parbat Body Ends Messner Controversy". L'année suivante, il repart chercher le corps de son frère mais celui-ci ne sera retrouvé qu'en 2005. [27] On 11 June 2006, the Messner Mountain Museum (MMM) opened, a museum that unites within one museum the stories of the growth and decline of mountains, culture in the Himalayan region and the history of South Tyrol. À partir de cette date, il espace ses ascensions et s'adonne pendant vingt ans à la randonnée pédestre de façon intensive (trekking), ce qui l'amène à traverser de grandes zones désertiques aux conditions climatiques parfois extrêmes. Since this ascent, Messner has never climbed another eight-thousander. All these records belong to "World's Firsts" category, known also as Historical Firsts. Reinhold Messner und seine Ehefrau Sabine Stehle sind kein Paar mehr.